insider guide to asian streetwear
shopping guide with LINKS
Again too long for email pls read in browser :D
I’ve been on a streetwear kick lately. No shade, but for the longest time I thought streetwear was a cheat code to being cool—you can just wear the same hoodie silhouettes and baggy parachute pants and you immediately look cool. For a retro leather, business-casual girl like me, I thought it was unfair.
Then I was proven wrong. I learn that 1. It is actually not easy to dress well with streetwear and 2. the world of Asian streetwear is such an interesting one.
It’s never truly just about clothes, right?
As with everything I’ve written about, cultural context is extremely important. There is a common pattern for every fashion movement originated from Asia, and that is resistance to conservatism and traditionalism. Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake left Tokyo for Paris in the 1960s to seek rebellion against both traditional Asian societies and conservative European fashion scene at the time. The product of this is avant-garde fashion, which I have written a quick introduction to if you’re interested :)
Streetwear itself originated from the New York City hip-hop culture in the 70s and 80s, which was dominated by African-American urban youths. The key is comfort: items need to be casual and free, often because you would move (dance, skateboard, etc.) in them. Brands would build hype upon exclusivity not with high prices like traditional luxury, but by artificial scarcity with limited editions, collabs, etc. This would still be true to this day.
Based on what I know about streetwear in Asia, Japanese fashion was heavily influenced by American workwear (jeans, boots, overalls, for example) and designers would put their own touches on these items. Just like how most things are in culture, these American-derived Japanese clothing in turn became inspirations for contemporary American streetwear.
Based on personal experiences, I would say streetwear in Asia really dominated the culture in late 2000s and early 2010s. First it was Japan and K-Pop, then slowly to China and Southeast Asia. It comes as no surprise that the rise of streetwear heavily correlates with the rise in popularity of hip hop and rap music.
How can I explain this rapid rise? I guess there is no quicker way to make a traditional Asian parent frown than to play hip hop music or wear baggy cargo pants with tattoos. So Asian urban youths did just that—play hip hop music and wear baggy cargo pants with tattoos.
The style then got softened, especially with womenswear. Think modifications like cargo skirts with bows, halter tops, leg warmers with track pants. I can only speak for BLACKPINK here, because I was there when the girls started buying cargo skirts and pink bandanas after their debut song Boombayah became a hit. 2NE1 (their predecessor girl group) was still very hardcore streetwear, but BLACKPINK is a bit softer. Big Asian cities gradually started to see more cargo pants and baggy T-shirts, and it would become the dominant style today.
For example, in their stage for Pretty Savage on Inkigayo, BLACKPINK and their team mixed elements of streetwear (cargo pants, jerseys) with more feminine touches (corsets, skirts, Jennie’s shirt that I don’t know the name of but keep seeing).
Compare that to this screenshot of a Vietnamese fashion brand (one I would say reflect well what young people are wearing), you can clearly see the influences.
If you’re curious about the kind of “softened” streetwear that I talk about, you can see them more by going onto TikTok/Rednote and type in “Shanghai street style” or “what people are wearing in [insert big Asian city].”
That is to say, there are still very stylized, hardcore streetwear in Asia that resemble closely the streetwear coming from 70s New York City, especially within the music crowds.
Here are some of my recs and why I want to support these brands! If you ever have the chance to visit/order hehe
Asian streetwear brands recs :)
Vietnam
For me, a good streetwear brand is one that focuses on details. Since the silhouettes are basic (hoodies, pants, etc.), a brand will succeed if they find a way to renovate the experience of wearing the products. It’s about how to construct the sleeves so that they’re boxy but not cumbersome, for the hood to be wide and comfortable enough, for the materials to be sturdy but breathable.
I love BEUTER for this, because they have mastered all the elements that make a perfect hoodie. They do not have many products on the website, but every single one has its purpose. Also I love their visuals :)) Always a plus if the brand knows their customers and create a world that people want to be a part of.
BEUTER has an online store, but they are also sold at Ruemiche, which is a popular stores with amazing local Vietnamese brands that you definitely should check out if you’re in Ho Chi Minh City.
They’re currently having a sale too! How nice. My picks are the zip hoodies (I also just ordered for myself the flared sweatpants, will report back).
If you’re looking for a store, Compound Garment in Ho Chi Minh City is a nice one. It has a lot of streetwear brands, and also incredible store design.
South Korea
Hyein Seo is a South Korean-born, Antwerp-educated fashion designer that I have been fascinated with lately because she combines futuristic streetwear with girlish elements and shapes. It’s the cool girl you’re a bit too shy to approach but she seems reaaaaally nice.
I also have a lifelong obsession with the Antwerp Six (essentially 6 important fashion designers trained at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, also the very school that Hyein Seo went to), so that’s why I was initially very drawn to this brand.
If you live in Seoul/will travel to the city soon, I’d really recommend checking out their new Gangnam flagship store. I’ve been following the launch of this store for a bit and I love the design and aesthetics but most importantly how hard the team has worked on it.
Address is 15-3, Dosan-daero 25-gil, Gangnam, Seoul, Korea 06037 (closed on Mon & Tue !!! please be noted)
Japan
JUNYA WATANABE LEVI’S
I know I should be recommending smaller local brands but I just need to preach about Junya’s Levis!!!
My favorite kind of baggy jeans, the perfect baggy jeans (I’m petite so I have to cut them a lot but I don’t mind because they are literally perfect). I got mine at thrift stores in Asia, so I don’t know how easy it is to get your hands on these jeans. I gave this a quick Google and most of the things that showed up are Highsnobiety articles so I assume it might be expensive/exclusive.
I would therefore suggest to find them in thrift stores. I found mine by digging through thrift shops in trendy neighborhoods in Singapore and Hong Kong. but I think Japan might have a lot :)
They are also man jeans, but the golden rule in fashion is everything is unisex if we stop being a bitch about it so go for it.
In terms of stores, Dover Street Market Ginza of course, but you don’t need me to tell you that ;)
China
I personally would buy TEAMWANG just for the sake of it. I don’t know about you, but Jackson Wang has been in my universe for the longest time ever (ever since the Wattpad K-Pop fanfiction days when he would be holding parties for all the characters LMFAOO).
Would love to hear people’s opinions on it if you’ve bought/experienced them; I’m going to visit the Hong Kong Harvey Nichols next week and I’ll touch the clothes and report back!!
Not really hardcore streetwear, but Nodress does really cute takes on classic items like cargo pants, hoodies and zip-ups. I remember seeing Rosalia in one of their designs before I knew about the brand (the hoodie with the demon horns) and it was really interesting.
The brand centers around nostalgia, with heavy Japanese and Chinese influences. The designer is a CSM-graduate, so you can be sure about the talent behind the brand.
Thailand
Every time I am in Bangkok, I have to go to the IWANNABANGKOK store at least once. I often do not even buy anything—I just want to see what products the brilliant minds at the brand came up with. From funky plastic neon pink bags to Hulk slippers (pic below I’m not even kidding), they’re just so fun and creative.
The shop assistants are always so cool; they say hi and are super friendly but let you do your thing which is my favorite way to shop.
Tbh just imagine having a shirt that says I wanna Bangkok. How chic.
Love how you broke this down. It’s never just about clothes. It’s a whole culture.
Saving this for later. I love asian streetwear and I need to get some new pieces